Tie-&-Dye ( Bandhani and Leheria )

The Bandhani and Leheria are two tie-and-dye methods which are popular in Rajasthan. For Bandhani, the fabric is tied into minute knots to form a design and then dipped into the dye. The Leheria (waves) pattern is also achieved with the tie-and-dye technique. Diagonals lines in a single colour run across a white background to create a magical effect.

Bandhani is both a complicated and sophisticated method of decorating cloth by just manipulating the dyes. Though the basic process is the same, not only each region but also each village has its own special designs and colour schemes.

 

In Rajasthan while chunari, with a design made up of small dots, is perhaps the most characteristic type of Indian tie-dyed fabric, the striped or zigzag laharia (from sanskrit lahara: wave) is also widely seen. Leheria has long lines or bonds in various colours running diagonally through the entire piece of cloth or saree. As in chunari-dyeing, successive tying and immersion in dye-baths produce a succession of colours. If the cloth united and rerolled form, the opposite diagonal, a checked effect results, called Mothra.

Embroidery of Rajasthani Craft

The colour and vibrancy of Rajasthan extend into its embroidery as well. A wealth stitchery, motif and design is spread across the state, each region and community practicing its own style.

The jat women of Bikaner embroider their thick woolen red wraps by counting of threads and double running stitch under which the same pattern emerges on both sides with overall appearance of a delicate Bandhini.

The jat women of Sikar and Jhujhunu embroider on their cotton skirts borders, animal and bird figures etc. The meos of Alwar district, get a rich pattern with chain stitch and the use of contrasting colours.

Jaisalmer has outstanding beautiful embroidery with almost every variety of stitch. At times even mirrors are slipped into to get unusual effects. Applique is done decorative by working out geometrical patterns from square shaped coloured textile pieces in which dark earthy colours are used.